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The traditional Indonesian ship design or Phinisi Schooner is a common sight in Raja Ampat, cutting an ominous piratical outline on the horizon. Since a cruise ship ran aground in March 2017, the Indonesian government has restricted the size of vessel allowed to visit these waters. That incident resulted in about 20,000 square metres of coral reef destroyed. Raja Ampat cruises advertised by larger ships (anything more than about 50 passengers) simply skirt the edge of a reg...

Raja Ampat is the centre of our planet's blue heart. One thousand eight hundred reef-fringed islands lie in the path of the Pacific Ocean Throughflow current. The density of life here is like nothing you've seen before.There are many who would travel to a place like this and barely break the surface of what there is to understand and learn. There are many more who miss the regency's largest residents. Whales and dolphins are, to Raja Ampat, like grazing wildebee...

Edi Frommenwiler was a mechanic, long-distance lorry driver, then adventure tour guide for 10 years, before he decided to embark on the journey of his life and build a 38m long sailing ship in one of the world’s most remote places. 

"The people told us that those birds came from the terrestrial paradise, and they call them bolon diuata, that is to say, 'birds of God'" Antonio Pigafetta (c. 1491 – c. 1531)In the absence of natural predators, Birds of Paradise have evolved elaborate plumage and displays that correlate with males’ sexual prowess and fertility. It’s the undercurrent of an evolutionarily stable strategy, that’s to say a way to ensure populations remain balanced perfectly at carrying capacit...

Latin Orcinus (“of the realms of the dead”), from Orcus + -inusAfter breakfast we resume our hunt for whales and dolphins heading south west into the heart of the Dampier Strait. A slice of nutrient-poor Pacific Ocean water pushes into the narrows from the east to meet bountiful currents and upwellings from the other side. In this three-dimensional world, fish and squid concentrate in the layers between vast water masses. At their boundaries, currents extend,...